The Hero's Closet: Sewing for Cosplay and Costuming by Gillian Conahan

Author:Gillian Conahan [Conahan, Gillian]
Language: eng
Format: azw3
Publisher: Abrams
Published: 2017-04-18T04:00:00+00:00

Easing a Sleeve

If you compare the top of a sleeve to the armhole it’s supposed to be inserted in, you’ll often see that the sleeve is slightly longer than the piece it fits, even if the sleeve is not designed to be gathered. This slight bit of fullness helps to round the sleeve over the shoulder, so it has a nice curve. The technique is very similar to gathering, in that you’ll sew one or more rows of basting stitches on the longer side and draw them up until the lengths match. If done correctly, though, the layers will join smoothly with no visible gathers or puckers. You may have to steam the eased area to get it to cooperate. You may also find eased seams used elsewhere in the garment, where the easing functions almost like a small, invisible dart. Note that soft or loosely-woven fabrics ease more readily than very crisp ones, and on some fabrics you may have to reduce the ease by trimming down the longer side.

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